Austria ... easily associated with Germany, although from a wine making perspective sharing very little in common. Riesling, yes. Gruner Veltliner, the white grape that established Austria's post-wine scandal industry, yes. But Austrian Gruner is nearly always spicy and very dry. And Austria is much warmer generally than Germany with hot winds blowing off the Hungarian plain.
And, what about red wine from Austria? There actually is quite a bit. And very good although not big, alcoholic, tannic and rich. If you're addicted to Napa Cabernet you will frankly find it laking but, if you enjoy elegant, accessible, food worthy wines listen up.
Blaufrankisch (pronounced just the way it's spelled) is thought by some to be the same as Gamay and, in Germany is called Lemberger. There is a bit grown these days in Washington (Shooting Star Blue Franc), California and New York state (Fox Run). It is a rare grape that can ripen in these places and withstand the sometimes harsh winter weather to ripen again. They call Blaufrankisch "Kekfrankos" in Hungary where its used to make the notorious, sluggish, sappy Bull's Blood wine.
Blaufrankisch produces a medium-bodied wine with food-friendly soft tannins and pleasing acidity. Cherries and red berries strung to smoke, spice and black pepper aromas and flavors can turn toward gaminess. That makes the wine a natural with game and strongly flavored meats, cheeses and sausages. As RP says, pair simple wines with powerful foods, powerful wines with straight-forward foods.
Several to try; Neckenmarkt 2005, Umathum 2005 or the Zantho 2006 (very nice price) are all from the Burgendland region south of Vienna in Austria where those warm breezes blow and the grapes ripen.
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