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Grapes / where it all begins

The grapes that produce all the world’s fine wines are part of the same, vast vine family or genus; the genus Vitis Vinifera. They have been used throughout the nearly seven thousand year history of wine making. Vitis Vinifera grapes are unique in the richness of their organic complexity, both in the flesh and especially in the skin of the grape. There are many other vine families but none that make great table wine.

The diversity within the Vinifera family is incredible. Over the millennia the Vinifera has multiplied into many thousands of varieties within the genus. Some, like Syrah, Aglianico, Riesling and Nebbiolo are thought to be very ancient. Others have developed much more recently. Cabernet Sauvignon is a relative baby, a huge international wine star today it was not in existence three-hundred years ago. Wether green, the source of white wine or dark skinned, the source of red wine, all the hundreds of grapes used to make fine wine are part of the Vinifera family.

What follows is a brief description of the most commonly encountered green and black grapes of the Vinifera genus. The entries are arranged alphabetically and, this being a work in progress, more grapes will be added over time.


CHARDONNAY
This hugely popular grape originated in northern France. All the white wines of Burgundy are made from Chardonnay and it is one of the base grape types used to make real Champagne.

Chardonnay grapes ripen with a relatively high sugar content but they take a long time to do it. They come in big pine-cone shaped clusters made up of big fat grapes. In a cool place like Burgundy or coastal California they often don't ripen fully so their acidity is more prominent. In warmer spots like Napa Valley the sugars can overwhelm the acidity and make for a very ripe and lush (or "fat and clumsy") wine.

The French in Burgundy have always aged their Chardonnay in oak barrels to add a bit of weight and richness to what might otherwise be pretty lean, acidic juice. Chablis, the northernmost section of Burgundy, and Champagne hang their hat on very crisp, citrusy Chardonnay. Even though oaked, a good Chablis or white Burgundy will present a lovely balance of acidity and fruity body and possess the ability to age gracefully.

If a very ripe harvest of sweet, sugary Chardonnay is aged in oak it can produce a really big wine, sometimes with elevated alcoholic content. From the eighties through the beginning of this century oak aged, warm climate Chardonnay was in vogue. Most wine makers have backed off from this super charged style. If you like that fully fruited, toasty, rich flavor you like an oaky Chardonnay. If you prefer a cleaner, crisp, refreshing taste than you should choose "un-oaked" Chardonnay which is often fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel.

The key variable in Chardonnay is therefor, how ripe and rich or how clean and brisk do you like it? Chardonnay the world over runs the full range but it always makes a mouth-filling, well developed wine with loads of flavor. Hence, its popularity.

Don't assume you love Chardonnay or hate it based upon one glass. Try several from different places (Burgundy, Sonoma, New Zealand, South Africa) side by side for fun.

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